Your florist’s chrysanthemum can droop when the soil is too dry or too wet, and the leaves can look the same in both cases. Check the soil first.
Thirst (dry potting mix). If the soil is dry, water thoroughly (for a florist’s chrysanthemum that’s usually every 3 to 5 days in summer). The leaves should lift again within a day.
Not a match? Compare the signs below to find the one you have.
How to tell
Soggy roots can also cause drooping because damaged roots cannot take up water. The soil is wet, the base feels soft, and adding more water makes the damage worse.
The fix
Stop watering and let the soil dry out. Check that the pot drains. If the roots are brown and mushy, unpot it, cut away the soft roots, and repot in fresh, dry mix.
How to tell
It sits near a cold window, an outside door or an air-con vent, and looks limp after cold nights or while the vent is running.
The fix
Move it away from the draft to a spot with steadier temperatures.
How to tell
It started drooping right after you repotted, bought, or relocated it.
The fix
This is transplant shock. Keep its care steady, don’t fertilize, and give it a week or two to settle. Resist the urge to fuss.
How to tell
It wilts in the heat of the afternoon but recovers by evening.
The fix
Shift it out of direct midday sun. A temporary wilt in heat is the plant conserving water.
How to tell
Along with drooping foliage, unopened buds or flowers fall, usually a reaction to a sudden change in light, temperature, or watering just as the florist’s chrysanthemum was budding.
The fix
Keep its spot and watering completely stable through the bloom cycle. Once it settles, the next flush of buds should hold.
Feel the soil before changing care. If it is dry, water thoroughly. If it is wet, let it drain and dry. Keep the plant away from cold drafts and hot vents.
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