Just the very tips and edges go brown and papery while the rest of the leaf is fine. This is most common in winter with the heating on, and pinstripe calathea prefers 60–80% humidity.
The fix
Raise humidity: group plants together, sit the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, or run a humidifier. Misting helps only briefly.
Other possible causes
Not a match? Compare the signs below to find the one you have.
Tap-water fluoride and accumulated salts
How to tell
Pinstripe calathea is one of the more sensitive houseplants to fluoride and salts in tap water, so tips brown slowly over months even with otherwise good care. Fluoride injury can appear without any visible crust. A white crust on the soil surface or the pot rim shows mineral or fertilizer salts, not fluoride specifically.
The fix
Switch to rainwater or distilled water and flush the pot occasionally to wash out built-up salts.
Inconsistent or under-watering
How to tell
The soil dries out hard between waterings, so the tips (the last to get water) crisp first.
The fix
Water more evenly: check the soil regularly and don’t let it go completely bone dry, then soak thoroughly.
Fertilizer burn
How to tell
Tips brown within a week or two of feeding, sometimes with a white crust on the soil surface or the pot rim. It follows feeding too often or too strong.
The fix
Flush thoroughly with plain water and feed less often, always diluted.
Too much direct sun
How to tell
Dry brown patches or scorched edges show up where strong sun hits the leaf. Pinstripe calathea wants bright, indirect light.
The fix
Move it back from the glass, or filter the strongest sun with a sheer curtain.
Thrips
How to tell
Silvery patches with tiny black dots point to thrips.
The fix
Rinse the plant, cut off the worst leaves and treat in rounds, as the thrips guide explains.