How to propagate Flaming Katy

Choose a healthy, mature leaf (not old and leathery, not brand new and soft). Early spring to midsummer gives the best results.

Pull the leaf off cleanly at the base or cut it with a clean knife, keeping a small section of petiole (leaf stalk) attached if possible.

Let the cut end callus over in open air for 30–60 minutes. This reduces the risk of rot.

Place the cut end into slightly moist cacti or succulent mix (or standard potting mix with added perlite). Lay a succulent leaf flat on the surface, or push the leaf stalk 1–2 cm into the mix if the leaf has one.

Do not water for the first week. After that, mist lightly every few days to keep humidity around the leaf without waterlogging the roots.

Place in bright, indirect light and temperatures above 18 °C. Avoid direct sun.

Tiny plantlets or roots appear at the base of the leaf after 3–8 weeks. Once a plantlet has a few leaves of its own, separate and pot it up individually.

Choose a healthy stem with at least one node and one or two leaves. In spring or early summer the plant is growing actively, so cuttings root fastest.

Cut just below a node using clean, sharp scissors or a knife. A cutting of 10–15 cm with one or two leaves is ideal.

Remove any leaves from the bottom 5 cm so they don’t rot in water or soil.

Water method: place the cut end in a glass of room-temperature water, keeping the leaves out of the water. Change the water every three days. Move to soil once roots are 2–3 cm long.

Soil method: dip the cut end in rooting powder (optional), then push it 3–4 cm into damp potting mix. Cover loosely with a clear bag to keep humidity high.

Keep the cutting in bright, indirect light and warmth (above 18 °C). Avoid direct sun, which wilts the cutting before roots form.

Roots typically appear within 2–5 weeks. Once new leaves start growing, the cutting is established: treat it like a mature plant.