Zebra haworthia care guide

A small succulent that hates wet feet

The zebra haworthia is a small, clump-forming succulent from the Cape region of South Africa. Its stiff, narrow, dark green leaves form a star-shaped rosette about 12 cm (5 in) tall and carry bands of raised white bumps, which give it the zebra look. Botanists have moved it to the genus Haworthiopsis, so its current name is Haworthiopsis attenuata, but it is still widely sold as Haworthia attenuata. It grows slowly and can live for decades.

Two things decide success. The first is light: it needs a bright spot, but hot midday sun can scorch the leaves, while too little light makes the rosette stretch and the white pattern fade. The second is water: it stores water in its leaves, so the mix must dry out between waterings. Soil that stays wet causes root rot, which is the main thing that kills it. Lithops, the living stones, is another small South African succulent, but it is far stricter about when it gets water.

It is often mixed up with Haworthiopsis fasciata. A zebra haworthia has white bumps on the inner face of its leaves too, while H. fasciata is smooth there. New rosettes, called offsets or pups, appear around the base. Once they have roots, you can separate them in spring or summer, let the cut dry for a few days and pot them up. A single leaf can also root.

Water thoroughly while it grows in spring and summer, until water runs out of the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer so it never stands in water. Water again only once the mix has dried out. In warm, bright weather that can mean about once a week, in cooler or darker conditions less often. Water the mix rather than the rosette, since water that sits on the leaves can lead to leaf spot. Tepid rainwater is ideal.

From late autumn to early spring it rests. Keep it almost dry, with just enough water to stop the leaves from shriveling. Wet mix in a cool, dim winter room is the most common cause of root rot. If growth stops and leaves shrivel even though the mix is moist, take it out of the pot, cut away soft or dead roots, let it lie dry for about a week and repot it in fresh, dry mix.

Give it bright light with some protection from hot sun. An east or west window with a few hours of direct sun suits it well. A south window works if a sheer curtain softens the midday sun, because harsh sun can scorch the leaves. It tolerates lower light better than many succulents, but in too little light the leaves stretch and lose their color. If you move it outdoors for summer, do it gradually over a few weeks so it does not burn.

It needs very little feed. Give it a low-nitrogen fertilizer at half strength once or twice while it grows in spring and summer. Do not feed it during its winter rest.

It grows best at about 16 to 27 °C (61⁠–⁠81 °F), so normal room temperature suits it. Keep it above 10 °C (50 °F) and out of cold drafts. It can take a short cold spell but not frost. A cool room in winter is fine as long as you keep it almost dry.

It needs no extra humidity. Ordinary dry indoor air suits it, and it likes good ventilation. There is no need to mist it, and water left sitting on the leaves can cause leaf spot.